TROPIC STAR LODGE, PANAMA FISHING PARADISE IN PINAS BAY, PANAMA
By Bill Boyce



Cordial greetings were the business of the morning as the lodge guests assembled in the galley of the prestigious establishment for their breakfast and coffee. The equatorial sun was beaming on what was to be another stunning day offshore in the rich, historic waters that surround Bahia Pinas, Panama. What these unsuspecting guests could not comprehend was the scene of utter mayhem they were about to witness once their boats made it to the fishing grounds.



Boats at Tropic Star Lodge are identical 31’ Bertrams with twin Detroit diesels painted colorfully to distinguish one from the other. Each boat is named after the countries in which many lodge guests reside. The Miss Australia, Miss England, Miss France, Miss Scandia, Miss Costa Rica, and so on. The captains and mates, most of whom were born and raised in one of the two small villages occupied by the only inhabitants of this far reaching region of the densely forested Darien jungle, could scarcely imagine what they too were to soon witness.

The day started like most, making our way five miles offshore to the world renown Zane Grey Reef – a series of three rocky domes that jut from a mud plain at a depth of 350 feet, to pinnacles of 145, 159, and 160 feet. A typical Pinas fishing day begins with the ritual of “making bait” for the day’s action. But this particular day began differently. Something of deep interest caught the eyes of the focused fleet of captains. That vision was a pileup of birds. I say birds, but with that understatement I mean pelicans, boobies, petrels, terns, and frigates – all wheeling and cockling in what looked to be a virtual “chicken ranch” some three miles south of the outer bay. Knowing that cue obviously spelled bait and lots of it, the fleet turned toward it and while in route, the mates readied the bait rigs to stock up on the supply. Coming upon this melee it soon became obvious what created the commotion. It was not just the ever present black skipjack and bullet tuna surface feeding on ichthyoplankton and small bait fish… this “war zone” was the scene of several bait balls being pushed to the limits of the surface from below. So much so that the schools of sardines, so furiously pursued, literally bulged the surface of the ocean with their scurrying motion. This sight in itself was intoxicatingly captivating, but the site which no angler on those boats that day will ever forget, was not that of those bait balls… instead it was of the 30 to 40 pacific sailfish fining and dancing with dorsals sailing “high and dry” all around the bait while the song “death to the baitfish” was played in B minor.



Tackle was flying, people were screaming, boats were doing donuts to get in position for a trolled pass, yet nobody could make a conscious decision to fish it or film it. I sat there with my rod in my hands not saying a word as I lowly cursed my bad luck of not having my underwater camera gear aboard. At this instance, those images were already being developed in my mind. What few anglers could comprehend at that moment was for the dozens of sailfish we were seeing on the surface… how many scores of them were down under the bait to push it that hard? A conservative estimate from my years of seeing this act staged in various locations, (yet not in this magnitude),my guess, probably hundreds…!!!

This kind of sea life is not uncommon in the Gulf of Panama which constitutes some of the most biologically productive waters in the world. Waters laden rich with nutrients from the deep upwelling present in the cool Humboldt Current that churns northerly from Peru and Ecuador. These waters then merge with the warm, relatively shallow waters of the gulf. This mixing action creates a nutrient-rich brew where dense blooms of algae can turn on in a matter of a day, and in doing so, produce the basic oceanic building blocks –the bottom rung of the food chain which feeds amazing concentrations of bait. Tides play a major role in this region as well, averaging 14 feet…!!! This amount of water movement doesn’t allow those ocean fertilizers to settle without first enabling their enhancing powers to take hold. Having scuba dived here on several occasions, I have been entranced by the contrast in the warm temperatures found at the surface, to those cooler waters found just a few fathoms down. With it at times, a distinct thick algae layer at the surface reminiscent of soup in some areas, yet below this layer, in the cooler waters…the visibility increases to 100 feet or more. This eerie phenom adds to the mystique of Pinas Bay.

A LITTLE HISTORY LESSON
When one gets offshore and looks at the distant ridges and peaks that surround this area you begin to wonder how in the world the Spaniards did it. After all it was the explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa that stumbled across the Isthmus of Panama to become the first “euro” to discover the Pacific Ocean in 1513. At some point he and the boys had to “hack and whack” their way through this unrelenting jungle to make it to the Inca treasures they eventually brutally plundered. The difference in that jungle, from his time to the present day is… well, nothing. It is still as wild as ever and the nearest road to Tropic Star Lodge ends 100 miles to the north. Therefore supplies are shipped in via the lodge’s tender, M/V Swiftship. A logistical nightmare for most, but here, CEO - Operators Mike and Terri Andrews take it all in stride. What can’t be shipped in gets built there on site in a very impressive machine shop and boat yard.



The lodge was built in 1961 by a Texas oil tycoon who did so just to share the fishing and ambience with his good friends and business associates. A Canadian company bought it in 1968 and built up more accommodations with the intention of creating a fishing charter destination, as they had in Northern Canada with their Artic Star Lodge. Hence the romantic name Tropic Star Lodge for this Southerly retreat. A large earthquake rocked the region in 1976 and, not wanting to rebuild it with distant, hard to come by materials, the new owners took the insurance settlement and sold the lodge to Conway Kittredge, Terri’s father, in 1976.

Purchased as a potential real estate investment, with $70,000 in charter deposits and 9 of the 31’ Bertrams in the harbor, Conway decided to renovate it and open it for business to give folks a charter fishing operation. His good friend in Miami was Richard Bertram. Together they realized that this wonderful piece of paradise should be made available for international sport fishing aficionados to experience. Nowadays, 14 of those 31’s call Pinas their home and operate at full capacity for most of the year. Guests arrive from Panama City on Aeroperlas airlines flights in twin engine Otter aircraft, landing on a small, well maintained cement airstrip built jointly by the Panamanian government, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and overseen by Pinas Bay Resorts in 1994.



TIMING IS EVERTYTHING
Historically the lodge was only open from late fall to mid spring, the stretch of time typically considered the dry season. It can rain then but not in the large concentrations during the wet season, say September to November. Afterall, this is rain forest country. The dry months had always been thought to be the best marlin fishing season and it is not uncommon to catch a grand slam on any given day. Black marlin are daily predators at the Zane Grey Reef, the blues and striped marlin are found a bit more offshore chasing the schoolie skipjack in the vicinity of the 100 fathom curve. But after looking at some old tournament data from the lodge’s infancy, it was discovered that the biggest marlin were consistently caught in June and July. The resorts expert management team of Hennie and Ursula Marais, (from Africa’s Famous Bon Bon resort), have further enhanced Tropic Stars stunning reputation and bookings have now extended well past April. Marketing manager, light tackle world record fishing guru Raleigh Werking says, “the real benefit in the exponential rise of lodge clientele is that the marlin and sailfish fishing has now been discovered to be great, year round!!!”

LET'S GET WET
A typical day at Tropic Star will begin as previously mentioned with a five mile run to the Zane Grey Reef. It is here that a consistent supply of black skipjack, bullet tuna, pacific bonito, and rainbow runners can be found breezing and jumping in the early morning hours. Their commotion and teeming numbers are what hungry black marlin prefer for breakfast. The proven method here is not rocket science. Catch a few live ones, bridal them with 20/0 circle hooks and set them right back where they belong… fished from the outriggers and slowly trolled right next to the schooling tunas. Think about it … a large school of feeding tuna is a hell of a chum slick, and when a black marlin makes his Polaris missile approach from below that school, they will scatter to the depths for protection. At which point what is going to be left behind…??? That’s right… your bait!!!!


Raleigh Werking with a Pinas Bay Tuna

The outriggers begin to shake as your tuna is helplessly attempting to evade. Snap goes the rubber band and you are bit. A long drop back to get the bait turned in its mouth and tight you come. Suddenly out of the mornings tranquility comes 600 pounds of finned fury. The Morro islands and the verdant green mountains make a spectacular backdrop for this fighting arena. When the bite goes on, it is not uncommon to see several hook ups in the course of a single morning. When the sun gets higher, the bait will slip deeper and more offshore and the fleet goes off with it. But before this departure, the boats will catch their days supply of baits to be used both live, or as dead bait in the artful form of the infamous Panama belly strip. A bait presentation so nicely done, I would even consider eating one!

PELAGIC PLAYGROUND
The 100 fathom curve is found approximately 10 miles offshore, with the 1,000 fathom curve another five or so beyond that. In these waters anything can happen. Sailfish can be as thick as thieves at times and, when targeting marlin, can actually become a nuisance. The pacific sailfish here can attain some jumbo proportions. In fact, of all the IGFA world records, for both line class and fly fishing, a full 20 % were captured in Pinas Bay waters. Sails here are commonly found in groups and multiple hook-ups are standard operating fair. Once a fish is hooked, the skippers like to make a slow circle in hopes of enticing a second, or pray tell, a third hook-up. The little Bertrams, as everywhere else you find them internationally, are consistent at raising fish. Once they do, their agile maneuverability is perfect for these calm waters and the fish are brought to the stern in a timely manner. The lodge rule of billfish conservation is ever present, and the sole use of circle hooks is strictly enforced. All billfish are released unless a world record is at stake.


Sailfish are plentiful virtually year round.

Offshore, marlin can surely be found near the drop-offs, but the lack of variation in the offshore topography makes the fishing grounds widespread. Sometimes the fish are straight out to the West and 25 miles out whereas the next day they can be 15 miles south hugging the scenic rocky shoreline. When offshore, the ratio of black marlin to blue marlin is about even. The size of the blues is usually in the 250 to 500 lb. range, with an occasional 600 or 700 lb. fish showing periodically. The blacks run a bit bigger, averaging 350 to 600 lbs. with some going 800 and up to the grander mark.

Lures in the darker colors seem preferred but when lots of small dorado are encountered under the flotsam which collects in the offshore tide rips, brighter greens and yellows can be effective. In these productive waters it is not uncommon to have an occasional striped marlin sneak into the pattern just to keep you up on your billfish I.D. toes. Sometimes in early spring, swordfish can be been seen sunning on the surface and several have been landed in recent years.

No matter what lures you want to pull for teasers you will find it hard to out produce the ever-popular “Tropic Star Daisy Chain” teaser – which incidentally does not vary from boat to boat. Every boat runs two, one on each corner and they consist of five Moldcraft 6” squids in a color combination of green, pink, and light yellow, followed by the tried and true Moldcraft 12” wide range or 12”chugger models. Some look as though they have been on the boat since it came out of the mold but, “no worries”, they raise fish!!! Once a fish is raised, a drop-back technique can be incorporated or an outrigger bait can be reeled up to tempt a strike.



The dorado season is year round as well but the definite season for the “raging bulls’ is November to March. Fish in the 50 – 60 lb. class are commonplace and nearly 25 % of IGFA world record dolphin have been caught in Pinas Bay. They will surely eat the large lures but they just can’t resist those succulent belly strips… got wasabi?

Large yellowfin tuna venture these waters and most often can be found in association with either the spinner dolphin, or more commonly, the spotted dolphin that forage in the region. Find a school of these dolphins with birds actively working their perimeter and it is a sure bet the school is holding tuna. A couple of techniques are employed at this stage. Trolling feathers, chrome headed islanders, or cedar plugs through the milling mammals is one way to hook up, but typically this results in the smaller “schoolie YFT’s” in the 20 – 50 lb. size. A good trick when fish are hooked is to have someone drop a heavy chrome jig like a Hopkins or a crocodile down to about 200 feet deep and wind that jig back quickly from the depths. Often the bigger fish in the school are active deeper and a drag smoking strike will let you know “you found one”. If you have any live bait, and the dolphin are feeding in a particular spot, that is not ranging much, slow trolling a live skipjack is definitely the method of choice to get “bow-strung” to a 200 + lb. yellowfin.

INSHORE FISH SAMPLING
The often overlooked fishery at Tropic Star Lodge is that found inshore. In the secluded sandy bays lying north of the lodge, roosterfish are found in quantity and can be fished by slow trolling live baits or trolling plugs like Rapalas. These roosters average 20-50 lbs. and really become common commodities in late March and April. When actively feeding in these shallows, their “rooster-like” dorsal fins can be seen slicing the surface. They are a great gamefish and their first run and overall tenacity will surely gain your respect. When fishing a slow-trolled live bait, you really have to be patient after the strike as they will play with the bait for a long while before inhaling it.


Large Cubera Snapper inhabit the rocks.

Another inshore fishing opportunity is the dog tooth snapper or cubera. These big dogs pretty much rule the rock piles and can be very territorial when intruded upon. Fishing a live bait is a sure bet but sometimes casting, then chugging a big Yozuri surface plug will get there attention when fished near their rocky lairs. Cuberas can also be enticed to chew on the chrome lures when fished deep over structure like that found at the Zane Grey Pinnacles.

Some large groupers do reside in Pinas, the broomtail grouper being the one most highly prized, but they are rare. The most common large inshore fish that can pin an unsuspecting angler to the rail are the jumbo jacks… almaco jacks, also known in some circles as amberjack. These brutes can attain 120 lbs. in these waters and they will eat a large skipjack like a candy bar. Again, I have hooked many on the deeply worked chrome jigs but didn’t land a good percentage because of being “deeply worked” by them instead…!!! These jacks, being home-guard species, are almost always found at the reef in deeper waters of 100-300 feet. When trolling live baits off the down riggers for black marlin, these big jacks can ultimately be pests.

Of all the great fishing destinations in the world, Tropic Star Lodge stands in a class by itself. It’s been the “fishing dream of a lifetime” for many who have heard the stories but have never thought it possible to get there. One such person is Roy VanLanen of Wheeling, Illinois. Raised in Middle America and having fished only freshwater his entire life, he figured he’d treat himself to the trip of his life. That being the experience of pulling on a fish that actually pulled back…!!! Well, his recent 5 day journey to Tropic Star Lodge fulfilled those dreams, and now promises to make it annual migration. Why you ask…??? His five day total was 2 large dorado, 16 sailfish, 2 striped marlin of 200 lbs., a 500 lb. blue, and a 600 lb. black. Not bad for a farm boy.

Dreams do come true and a trip to Tropic Star Lodge will have you blessing your lucky stars for a long time to come.


A sketch of the Zane Grey Pinnacles by Guy Harvey.

THE ZANE GREY REEF
The Zane Grey Reef is legendary. This piece of real estate is without question, responsible for more black marlin hook-ups than any other spot in the entire Eastern Pacific Ocean…period. What a blessing it is for this reef to be so close to the lodge, the fish are always there. Many species call these rocks their home. From amberjacks to jack crevalle; cubera snapper to mullet snapper; black skipjack to bullet tuna; rainbow runners to dorado; sailfish to black marlin and for a variety of sharks, this place looks, feels, and even smells fishy… !!! Guy Harvey and the BBC film crews spent several days scuba diving the reef and together drew the most comprehensive layout of the pinnacles in his book, Portraits from the Deep. His accounts of the fashion in which the various fish would lie in layers at various depths is fascinating. “Snappers so thick you couldn’t see through them, currents ripping at the surface then dead calm in the depths, and graceful manta rays with 15 foot wing spans looking like fighter jets soaring in slow motion in the dark green emerald waters”.


Guy Harvey enjoying some on the water time.

The variety of life here and the strict protection of it are of the utmost concern to the Andrew’s. They have made huge strides in the political arena to save the reef from commercial fishing. Their efforts led to the Panama Government enacting a 20 mile “conservation” zone for the Pinas Bay region, allowing only sport fishing, in hopes to insure the reefs viability for future generations.

The Andrews Family who literally saved the reef.

GETTING THERE
Getting there is the first obstacle, but not a big one as many flights on several carriers are available from the states. American Airlines services Panama City from Miami, Florida. Continental Airlines flies direct to Panama City from Houston, Texas; as well as their Newark, New Jersey hub. Delta Airlines services Panama City non-stop from its Atlanta, Georgia base. Iberia Airlines flies direct from Miami. The national airline, Copa, has non-stop service from Los Angeles, California, Miami, and Orlando, Florida.

Once in Panama City, the usual trip has a Friday night stay at the well appointed Caesar Park Hotel where Tropic Star Lodge guests get a reduced rate. All transfers to and from the airport, as well as to and from the hotel are in the charter package. A Saturday morning flight on Aeroperlas will take you from the Allbrook Airport in Panama City to Pinas Bay which is about a one hour flight. Upon arrival in Pinas, your room assignments are given and you are welcome to take part in an array of activities from trail hiking the rain forest; to kayaking the inner bay; to bird watching; to fishing off the docks for jack crevalle, snook, and corvina; or leisurely enjoy my favorite Tropic Star past time –drinking Pina Coladas at the pool while eating their famous seared tuna sashimi, delectable dorado sticks, and believe it or not…home made potato chips.

The fishing week will start on Sunday and continue through till Friday. Some half week charters are available and can be arranged from Bonnie, the U.S. booking agent, in Orlando, Florida. Tell them …. BILL BOYCE SENT YOU…!!!!

The website for Tropic Star Lodge is www.tropicstar.com.
Their address is :
635 N. Rio Grande Ave. Orlando, FL 32805
Toll Free phone in the U.S. 1-800-682-3424
International phone (407) 843-0125
FAX (407) 839-3637

Special thanks to Guy Harvey and the Tropic Star Lodge for photos used in this article.